Tallinn, Estonia: a cultural guide

While some cities are best enjoyed on hot summer days – Siena, say, or Carcassonne – others come into their own in the cold. Tallinn, the diminutive capital of Estonia, begs to be explored when there’s a nip in the air or, even better, when its narrow medieval buildings and cobbled streets are shrouded under a blanket of snow. Ancient merchants’ houses and cellars, home now to candle-lit and fire-warmed cafés and restaurants, lure visitors indoors to indulge in hot chocolate, spiced wine and hearty borsch. Better still, the cruise ships that ply the Baltic set sail for warmer climes come autumn, no longer disgorging their passengers into Tallinn’s bijou Old Town.

In fact, a common complaint from Tallinn's cruise-borne visitors is that insufficient time is set aside to explore the city. One could quickly enjoy the sweeping views from Toompea Hill, dash around the medieval city walls, admire the beautiful Gothic town hall, and pop into the churches and monasteries that pepper the Old Town, but this would do it a great injustice. As one Tallinner said to me: "I've lived here most of my life but it's still growing on me."

First things first: book a certified guide for a couple of hours to show you the Old Town. Both Laura Taul and Anna Gvozdeva speak excellent English, and know the city and its turbulent history inside out (book through www.tourism.tallinn.ee)

Then marvel at the beautifully restored medieval homes, guildhalls and churches (notably the building now housing the Museum of Medieval Torture Instruments, the House of the Brotherhood of Blackheads and the Church of the Holy Spirit). Carry a stash of small change (Estonian kroons or euros), as entry to churches costs about EEK20 or €1.

Dip into the craft shops, too, which sell linen and leather goods, woollen clothing and ornaments and implements carved from juniper wood. Pick of the bunch are the St Catherine's Guild shops on St Catherine's Passage, and the Lühikese Jala Gallery and Hindricus on Lühike Jalg up to Toompea Hill.

Tallinn boasts a café culture to rival Vienna and claims to have invented marzipan. Master chocolatier Peter runs Chocolaterie Pierre and neighbouring café Josephine on Vene Street – the former is quaint and frilly, with irresistible handmade truffles, the latter is more contemporary, known for its fabulous hot chocolate. The Tallinn City Theatre café is the place to join performers on a break.

Finally, take time to visit Kadriorg – a large, forested park criss-crossed with paths and home to the Baroque Kadriorg Palace, the Presidential Palace and several museums. The cutting-edge design of the spectacular Kumu museum provides an almost refreshing change from the Old Town's crooked medieval houses and wobbly streets.

You can walk to Kadriorg in 20 minutes but save your legs for the park and museums, and get there on the number 1 or 3 tram from the Viru shopping centre just outside Old Town.

While some cities are best enjoyed on hot summer days – Siena, say, or Carcassonne – others come into their own in the cold. Tallinn, the diminutive capital of Estonia, begs to be explored when there's a nip in the air or, even better, when its narrow medieval buildings and cobbled streets are shrouded under a blanket of snow. Ancient merchants' houses and cellars, home now to candle-lit and fire-warmed cafés and restaurants, lure visitors indoors to indulge in hot chocolate, spiced wine and hearty borsch. Better still, the cruise ships that ply the Baltic set sail for warmer climes come autumn, no longer disgorging their passengers into Tallinn's bijou Old Town.

By Gabriella Le Breton - telegraph.co.uk

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